A friend of mine called me to pass by his place to check on his DVD player which he suspected was hit by high voltage.
I passed by his place and the DVD was brought to me, I opened it and my first stop was the power supply since power surge usually affect the power supply especially the primary side.
The good thing with power surge problems are usually catastrophic and therefore in most cases you can easily identify the problem without using expensive test equipment and therefore your eyes are good enough to locate the faulty component(s).
Most suspect components which succumb to power surge are capacitors, diodes, transistors, I.Cs. Therefore it is important to do a quick scan on those components.
So after opening the DVD which has only two bolts, I scanned the primary side and sure enough I spotted one capacitor with the top swollen as you can see the picture below.
As you can see from this model, the use of wires for connection is zero (kudos Samsung, way to go), therefore the connection between the power supply and the main board is done using a kind of a jumper (connector).
To remove the power board you will need to detach this connector, you can use a flat screw driver but care must be taken to avoid damaging the pins.
To access the power supply board you will also need to remove the front cover as shown below.
With the front cover out of the way removing the power board is now easy and you can now sit back and troubleshooting it comfortably.
So the far the only culprit still remain the swollen capacitor and I also wanted to know if the fuse is okay and after testing it with my meter set to diode range I got a beef indicating the fuse survived.
Usually if you find the fuse open don’t just replace it since fuse rarely dies on its own and therefore if you find a blown fuse and darkened inside means there is a shorted component(s) ahead and the most likely suspect is the control ic, bridge diode, capacitor or transistor.
In my case the fuse was okay and therefore I didn’t suspect shorted component, I turned the board to the bottom side and has no sign of stress in terms of darkened areas and therefore I was happy with what I saw.
With that I decided to change the only capacitor which was rated 15uf/400volts and see if there is any improvement.
I replaced it and applied power using the series trick and the bulb lights and then off. This is a good indication electronically speaking.
Looking at the display I noted the DVD was already on and trying to read the disc and since there was a disc already loaded it started spinning very fast and the disc counter started working.
Thank you guys
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